I feel like I am on a movie set!”

January 10, 2013 by Karen

I feel like I am on a movie set!”

“………every day in Varanasi feels like eavesdropping on a party. Life in Varanasi plays out like the scene after a major celebration in any other city – except here it’s every day……It’s kind of like being a little kid at an adult’s party. You’re curious, in awe, and not quite sure what the hell is going on.

Ibtimes.com ‘Conversation with an Undertaker’

They say you should visit Varanasi once in your lifetime and we were glad to finally have made it after yet another delayed plane. Our wonderful host arranged for a taxi to pick us up from the Varanasi airport. The driver entertained us on the way with his comments about the traffic in Varanasi.

Incredible India, incredible traffic.’

You need 3 things to drive in Varanasi:A good horn, good brakes and most of all good luck!

On our first full day we decided to walk into the old town. The sights, noise, smell and traffic that we encountered were like nothing else we have ever seen.

Lynne: I feel like I am on a movie set!

Les: I have never seen a bloody movie like this!

We had some coffee at the FAKE Brown Bread Bakery thanks to a flyer given to us by our host. We only found this out when we bumped into the owner of the real bakery in the street and shared an autorickshaw with him to his bakery. He has moved his bakery and the address in the current Lonely Planet is wrong. The fake people have kept his sign, menus and donation box for the school he funds. They have used the money to fund the building of a guest house. There is so much money involved they have also threatened to kill him. The owner’s mother was even taken to the fake bakery by her German tour company. Touts are also paid a commission to lead you to the wrong bakery.

The Real Brown Bread Bakery website

We wandered through the back lanes of the old city.

We found a friendly barber who gave Nick a shave and seemed to enjoy squirting him in the face with water.

Nick did enjoy the face massage that finished off the whole experience.

We liked the barber so much Les also went back for a hair cut.

We found ourselves wandering the ghats. We were asked to pose for more photos! Maybe we should start charging!

The ghats were certainly the place to be with all sorts of activities going on!!
One of the MANY cricket matches we stumbled upon.
Massage anyone?
Do you want to buy a bag?
A bath perhaps? Don’t forget to use the soap!

Next on the agenda was the sunset boat cruise to see the Ganga Aarti Evening Ceremony/

One of the burning ghats in the distance. This particular ghat offered both the traditional wood and the electric cremation options!
We took a day trip out to Sarnath
Seems the sign is not working!
Even without the mo, the gold chain and the toupee, Les felt he fitted the requirements to use these male toilets!
It was an early start for the sunrise cruise down to the main burning ghats, Manikarnika Ghat
We decided to give the cycle rickshaws a try. They really are not as comfortable as they look, with the seat tilted forward so you feel like you are going to fall out!
Lynne could not wait to get out!

We stayed with Harish at Home stay and enjoyed a hassle free four nights in Varanasi.




  1. Anonymous says:

    Karen and Nick, you have captured exactly the magic and wonder of Varanasi. As you said, everyone should certainly try to visit once in their lifetime.

  2. Anonymous says:

    Such a lovely place. Enjoy every moment

  3. Anne says:

    Fabulous photos – I really loved the way you guided us through your travels.

  4. Anonymous says:

    It is such an extraordinary place, unique! Have fun xxx

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