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The Amazing Altiplano

‘The harsh, at times almost primeval geography of the Southern Altiplano will tug at the heartstrings of those with a deep love of bleak and solitary places. ……… it encompasses majestic volcanic peaks, wide treeless wildernesses and the white emptiness of the salares, eerie salt deserts almost devoid of life. There’s something really otherworldly about the zone, enhanced by shimmering heat hazes and bizarre rock formations. At night, the starscapes are truly incredible, worth enduring the bitter after-dark temperatures for. For it can get seriously cold here; the altitude combined with scouring winds and lack of shelter or vegetation can sometimes make traveling here something of an endurance test, particularly when few of the accommodations are heated.’

Lonely Planet Bolivia

We took a four day tour from Tupiza to the Southern Bolivian Altiplano through Hostal Salares. Words can not really express all of the amazing things we saw. Photos cannot truly capture them either but here are a selection of our favourite shots. These images are from Day 1, 2 and 3 of the tour.

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Flamingos in Laguna Colorada.

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More flamingos in Laguna Hedionda ( foul smelling lake)

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Arbol de Piedra (the tree of rock)

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A rare Viscacha, a rabbit like creature with a long tail.

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Llama city

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Quebrada de Pelala

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San Antonio or mini Maccupichu as it is known.

A town believed to be cursed by the devil.

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Not our jeep thankfully!

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Laguna Colorada

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The salt Hostal where even the bed bases were made from salt! This was our accomodation on the last night and believe me we deserved the luxury!

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Laguna Verde

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Laguna Colorada again!

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Nick braved the cold to get this shot of the incredible night sky!

Hitch hiking, Dusty Destinations, Salta and Salinas Grandes

The church in Cafayate on our last night

Out first attempt at hitch hiking in Argentina proved to be very successful! At one point we thought we would have to sell a vital organ to afford the rip off prices the taxi services (actually local men with 4x4s) were trying to charge us to get from Angostaco to Molinos (from where we could then catch the bus to Cachi). I suppose they have a captive market given there is no public transport for that route. Just when we managed to bargain a reasonable price the driver showed us he had a flat tyre and told us he would be back in fifteen minutes from the Gomeria. An hour and a half later we strapped on our packs and were about to start the 1 kilometre dusty walk back to the main road.

The call “Gringoes!” went out as we saw a car drive past us into town and we started running towards the road to catch it on its way back from the plaza. The thumb went up and thankfully they pulled over. We asked them in Spanish where they were going ( not sure why as they were clearly foreigners) and they asked back in a very Australian accent if we spoke English. It turned out they were from Perth. Kelly and Alan, a gorgeous young couple gave us a lift all the way to Cachi. We were so happy to have the lift we took to them to dinner to say thank you!

The streets of Cachi at dusk

The church in Cachi

From Salta we took a day tour following the train to the clouds to San Antonio and then on to Salinas Grandes, finally ending in Pumamarca.

Nick captured this beautiful lady who was selling knitted products outside of the church in San Antonio.

What is it with us and flat tyres? That makes number three for the trip!

On the way down to Pumamarca

Street shot of Pumamarca

Street shot of Pumamarca

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Hill of seven colours in Pumamarca

A man with a van full of pan!
Tilcara

View from the cactus fort

Tilcara

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Useful links

Salinas Grandes

We visited the museum in Salta where these three mummies are kept. The boy was on display when we were there

Salta por Siempre hostel, Salta

Albahaca Hostel Tilcara

We left the big smoke of Salta behind and headed off into the mountains to the second most important wine making region in Argentina. We intended to spend two nights in Cafayate, but loved it so much we stayed for four. Our accommodation was in a basic yet gorgeous hospedaje on the edge of the town called La Casona del Ser 
where we were hosted by the lovely Geronimo. We booked through Hostelbookers which usually works out cheaper! Geronimo was from Buenos Aires and came to Cafayate on a holiday a few years ago and never left.

“No pasar nada aqui, me encanto la tranquilidad!

( Nothing ever happens here, I love the tranquility!)

This was his response when we asked if it was safe to walk to and from hostal at night. Other locals also told us how they never locked their doors and how five year old children could cycle safely to and from school alone. There were bicycles everywhere on the streets without locks and we were trying to think of another location in the world where you could leave your bike, sometimes for the whole day and come back to find it where you left it.

 

 

 

Cafayate is locate close to Quebrada de Cafayate, an amazing valley. We took an afternoon tour with Leo and two other gringos to see the sights. WOW!

 

 

The devil’s throat

Growing it about 3 to 5 cm a year this cactus is an old one!

 

 

View from our vantage point as the sun was going down.

A road to nowhere! The road gets taken out often when the river floods. Our guide told us it was three times last year! Thankfully there is still room at the side to start a new one.

We have also been tasting a lot of the local vino Tinto. Given that we are in such an important wine region it would be rude not to!

Wine tasting at Chato’s wine bar where we were hosted by the beautiful Oscar Eduardo Cruz. Our favourite wines were………

 

 

An afternoon was spent at Cabras de Cafayate where we saw the goats and had a very informative tour of the property and cheese making factory. The owners just happened to own Domingo Hermanos winery and we felt it would be rude not to try the vino tinto on display! We had a picnic lunch of goats cheese and wine in the most beautiful location.

 

It was clear to us why Geronimo had decided to make his home here in Cafayate and part of us wished we could too!

 

 

 

 

 

 

Argentina is one of only two countries left in the world that has an airline run by its air force (Iran being the other country). The name of this airline is Lade. Apparently they have a terrible reputation for reliability. This was evident when we rang to book accomodation in the next place we stayed (Comodoro Rivadavia) and the person asked if we could call them after we checked onto our flight. We have flown on them twice now and have found them to be on time, safe and quite reliable.

 

Ushuaia from the sky on the way in…

 

The food did not come out fast enough for my liking and so the chant went out!

On the Tarmac after our safe landing in Ushuaia.

We would definitely recommend flying with Lade. They only fly in Patagonia and have an ever changing schedule. We found them to be only a little bit more expensive than the bus, especially from El Calafate to Ushuaia.